What to Do When You Find a Baby Wild Animal 

Finding a baby animal alone can feel like an emergency, but being alone does not always mean the animal has been abandoned.

Many wildlife parents leave their babies unattended for long periods while they search for food or avoid drawing predators to the nest. Young rabbits, fledgling birds, fawns, and other healthy babies are often mistakenly taken from parents who are still nearby.

(Click here if it’s an injured adult)

Before You Take the Animal

Unless the animal is in immediate danger, injured, visibly ill, or known to be orphaned, please contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator before removing it.

A baby animal may need help if:

  • Its mother is confirmed dead.
  • It is bleeding, weak, cold, unresponsive, or unable to stand normally.
  • It has an obvious wound, fracture, or other injury.
  • It is covered with flies, fly eggs, maggots, or excessive fleas.
  • It was caught or carried by a cat or dog, even if you cannot see a wound.
  • It is in immediate danger and cannot safely be reunited with its parent.
  • A licensed wildlife rehabilitator has advised you to bring it in.

Whenever possible, take a photograph of the animal and its surroundings before moving it. This can help a rehabilitator determine the animal’s age, condition, species, and whether reunion with its parents may still be possible.

You Have the Animal…Now What?

Once a wild animal has been contained, your job is not to raise it, diagnose it, or make it comfortable through attention and affection.

Your job is simply to keep it contained, quiet, safe, and minimally stressed until it can reach a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.

1. Place the Animal in a Secure Container

Use a sturdy cardboard box, pet carrier, or plastic container with a securely fitted lid and adequate ventilation.

Line the bottom with:

  • A clean T-shirt
  • Fleece
  • Paper towels
  • Another smooth, tightly woven material

Avoid towels with loose loops or frayed fabric. Tiny toes, nails, wings, and legs can become caught in them.

Make sure the container is closed securely. Even very young or injured animals may suddenly jump, climb, squeeze through small openings, or attempt to escape.

Do not transport a wild animal loose in your car.

2. Keep the Animal Warm, but Not Hot

Babies and injured animals often have difficulty maintaining their body temperature.

When warmth is needed, place a heating pad set on low underneath one-half of the container. You may also use a warm water bottle or tightly sealed bottle of warm water wrapped in cloth.

Always leave part of the container unheated so the animal can move away from the warmth.

Never:

  • Place the animal directly on a heating pad.
  • Use very hot water.
  • Place the container in direct sunlight.
  • Use a heat lamp without instructions from a rehabilitator.
  • Allow the container to become hot or stuffy.

An animal that feels cold, is very young, has little fur or feathering, or appears weak may need supplemental warmth. A fully furred or feathered animal in warm weather may not. Ask your rehabilitator when possible.

3. Keep the Animal Somewhere Dark and Quiet

Place the closed container in a quiet, temperature-controlled room away from:

  • Children
  • Pets
  • Televisions
  • Music
  • Household activity
  • Smoke
  • Strong odors
  • Direct sunlight

Do not repeatedly open the container to check on the animal. Quietly observing through an air hole or briefly checking when necessary is enough.

A wild animal may remain perfectly still when frightened. This does not mean it is calm or enjoying your company. Wild animals instinctively hide signs of fear and weakness.

4. Do Not Feed the Animal

Please do not offer milk, formula, bread, seeds, worms, fruit, vegetables, pet food, or anything else unless a licensed wildlife rehabilitator has given you specific instructions for that particular animal.

Different species require very different diets. Even animals that look similar may need completely different foods, feeding schedules, temperatures, and methods.

Feeding the wrong food can cause:

  • Aspiration into the lungs
  • Choking
  • Digestive distress
  • Diarrhea
  • Bloating
  • Nutritional deficiencies
  • Developmental problems
  • Death

Cow’s milk is not an appropriate substitute for a wild animal’s mother’s milk.

A baby animal will not starve during the time it takes to contact and travel to a rehabilitator. In most cases, an incorrect feeding is much more dangerous than missing a meal.

5. Do Not Give Water by Mouth

Do not squirt, pour, drip, or syringe water into a wild animal’s mouth.

A weak, frightened, cold, or injured animal may not swallow normally. Water can easily enter the lungs and cause aspiration, pneumonia, or death.

Do not place an open water dish inside the container unless instructed. Very young, weak, chilled, or neurologically impaired animals can become wet, cold, or even drown in shallow water.

A rehabilitator will determine whether the animal needs fluids and how they can be given safely.

6. Do Not Pet, Cuddle, or Play With the Animal

It is natural to want to comfort a baby animal. To wildlife, however, human handling is not comforting.

Being touched, passed around, photographed, cuddled, or watched closely can cause intense stress, even when the animal appears quiet.

This is especially important with baby rabbits, which are highly stress-sensitive. Please do not allow children to hold, pet, kiss, carry, or play with a baby rabbit or any other wild animal.

Too much human contact can:

  • Increase fear and physiological stress
  • Worsen shock
  • Cause the animal to struggle and injure itself
  • Interfere with necessary rest
  • Teach a young animal to associate people with comfort or food
  • Reduce its chances of behaving normally after release

A baby wild animal is not a temporary pet or an educational experience for children. The kindest interaction is as little interaction as possible.

7. Keep Children and Pets Completely Separated

Place the container behind a closed door where children and pets cannot investigate it.

Do not allow pets to sniff the container. The sound, smell, and presence of a dog or cat can be extremely frightening to a prey species, even when the pet is gentle.

Wild animals can also carry parasites, bacteria, fungi, or diseases that may affect people or pets.

Wash your hands thoroughly after handling the animal, its container, or any bedding. Keep the container away from kitchens and food-preparation areas.

8. Handle Only When Necessary

If you must move the animal, wear gloves and use a towel or cloth to gently guide or lift it whenever appropriate.

Do not handle:

  • Bats*
  • Raccoons*
  • Skunks*
  • Foxes
  • Coyotes
  • Adult mammals
  • Birds of prey
  • Herons
  • Large waterbirds
  • Any animal that may bite, scratch, puncture, or strike

Contact a wildlife rehabilitator, animal control agency, or other qualified professional for safe handling instructions.

*These animals are considered ‘Rabies Vector Species’ animals. If you are exposed to these species contact your counties health department for guidance. DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE RABIES EXPOSURE. It’s better to be safe than sorry, and get some free rabies shots. They aren’t like the old ones in the stomach! I promise! 

If a person or pet has been bitten, scratched, or had direct contact with a bat or a potentially rabies-exposed animal, contact the appropriate physician, veterinarian, or county public health department promptly. Do not release or dispose of the animal until you have received instructions.

9. Tell the Rehabilitator About Any Cat or Dog Contact

An animal that has been inside a cat’s or dog’s mouth needs professional evaluation even when no injury is visible.

Tiny punctures can close quickly and disappear beneath fur or feathers. Bacteria introduced through a bite or saliva can cause a severe or fatal infection. And dogs can easily cause crushing injuries that aren’t easily seen.

When contacting the rehabilitator, be completely honest about:

  • Cat or dog contact
  • How long the animal has been in your care
  • Anything it was fed or given to drink
  • Any medications or home remedies given
  • Whether children handled it
  • Any falls, escapes, or other incidents

This information is not used to judge you. It helps the rehabilitator make the best treatment decisions for the animal.

10. Preserve the Exact Location Where the Animal Was Found

Write down the precise location where the animal was found. Save a dropped map pin whenever possible.

Also note:

  • The date and approximate time it was found
  • Whether a nest, den, sibling, or parent was nearby
  • Whether it was found near a road, building, tree, chimney, pool, or construction site
  • Whether a cat, dog, vehicle, window, lawn mower, or other hazard was involved

Wildlife should be returned as close as safely possible to its original territory after rehabilitation. The original location may also be essential if the animal can be reunited with its parents.

11. Arrange Transportation as Soon as Possible

Wildlife rehabilitators are volunteers with many animals in their care and usually are NOT able to retrieve animals. Please be prepared to transport the animal or help arrange transportation.

During the drive:

  • Keep the animal inside its closed container.
  • Keep the vehicle quiet.
  • Maintain a comfortable temperature.
  • Secure the container so it cannot tip or slide.
  • Do not allow passengers to hold the animal.
  • Do not open the container during transport.
  • Do not play loud music.
  • Drive directly to the agreed-upon location.

Confirm the transfer with the rehabilitator before leaving. Never leave an animal outside a rehabilitator’s home, veterinary office, or wildlife facility without permission.

The Most Important Rules

While waiting for a wildlife rehabilitator:

DO

  • Keep the animal securely contained.
  • Keep it dark and quiet.
  • Provide gentle warmth when appropriate.
  • Keep children and pets away.
  • Record exactly where it was found.
  • Report any cat or dog contact.
  • Arrange transportation promptly.
  • Follow the rehabilitator’s instructions.

DO NOT

  • Feed it.
  • Give it water by mouth.
  • Give milk or homemade formula.
  • Pet, cuddle, or play with it.
  • Allow children to handle it.
  • Let pets investigate it.
  • Bathe it.
  • Apply ointments, peroxide, alcohol, flea medication, or home remedies.
  • Give antibiotics, pain medication, or other drugs.
  • Attempt to splint or wrap an injury.
  • Keep it as a pet.
  • Postpone professional care to see whether it improves.

Why Can’t I Care for It Myself?

Wildlife rehabilitation requires specialized knowledge, proper housing, species-specific nutrition, medical support, and state, and sometimes federal, permits.

A baby that appears to be eating and growing may still develop serious nutritional, skeletal, feather, behavioral, or developmental problems that are not immediately visible.

Young wild animals must also learn the behaviors they need to survive without becoming dependent on people. A tame animal is not necessarily a happy animal, an animal that loses its natural fear of humans may become unreleasable or unsafe.

The goal is not simply to keep the animal alive. The goal is to return a physically healthy, behaviorally wild animal to its natural habitat.

Need Help?

Contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator as soon as possible.

When reaching out, please include:

  • A clear photograph of the animal
  • The species, if known
  • The exact location where it was found
  • When it was found
  • A description of any injuries or unusual behavior
  • Whether it had contact with a cat, dog, or other predator
  • Whether it has been given food, water, medication, or treatment
  • Your location and ability to transport

Please contact the rehabilitator before traveling. Intake availability, permitted species, and hours may vary.

Until professional help is arranged: contain the animal, keep it quiet, and resist the urge to feed or handle it. Sometimes doing less is the most helpful thing you can do.